A £10,000 grant for a project to “decolonise Welsh cakes” has sparked public outrage. Critics call it a waste of taxpayer money, while others say it’s an important reflection on food history. Here’s everything you need to know.
Introduction
Welsh cakes are a beloved part of Welsh culinary tradition—fluffy, sweet, and often associated with childhood memories and national pride. So when nearly £10,000 in public funds was granted to a project aiming to “decolonise the Welsh cake,” the reaction was swift, fierce, and deeply divided.
Is this artistic exploration and cultural reflection? Or just another example of government funding going too far? Let’s break down what happened, why people are furious, and what the project is actually trying to achieve.
The Welsh Cake Controversy: What Happened?
In early 2025, news broke that a grant of £9,952 was awarded to an initiative titled “Decolonising the Welsh Cake.” The project, led by artist and academic Ifor ap Glyn, aims to explore the colonial history of sugar used in Welsh cakes and how that history might reshape the way we understand national identity through food.
The story went viral almost immediately, with headlines calling the project “bonkers,” “absurd,” and “a misuse of taxpayer money.”
What Is ‘Decolonising the Welsh Cake’?
The project sets out to examine how ingredients like sugar—often harvested by enslaved people in colonies—became integral to traditional British and Welsh foods. The artist intends to explore how something as innocent as a Welsh cake can carry the legacy of exploitation.
The goal, supporters say, is not to cancel Welsh cakes, but to spark conversation about how colonialism still lives on in everyday life, even in what we eat.
Where Did the £10,000 Grant Come From?
The funding was provided by the Arts Council of Wales, which regularly supports cultural and creative projects. The council said the grant aligns with its mission to “support diverse voices and perspectives” and encourage work that explores Welsh identity from multiple angles.
According to the Arts Council, projects like this are essential in challenging dominant narratives and fostering reflection on history and culture.
Political and Public Backlash
The backlash was swift:
- Politicians from across the spectrum slammed the funding, with some calling for audits of the Arts Council’s budget.
- Critics on social media mocked the idea, with memes and jokes about “woke cakes” and “colonial currants.”
- Taxpayers questioned why public money was being spent on what they saw as over-intellectualised nonsense.
Many saw the project as symbolic of a wider cultural war, where traditional symbols are being reinterpreted or “attacked” in the name of political correctness.
Why Sugar Has a Colonial Past
While the debate may sound silly to some, the history of sugar is anything but. During the 17th to 19th centuries, sugar plantations in the Caribbean were powered by slave labour, creating a profitable industry for European powers—including Britain.
The sugar used in British and Welsh foods was often produced at the cost of millions of enslaved lives, and some argue that acknowledging this history is crucial for modern awareness.
Supporters Defend the Project
Artists, academics, and activists have come to the project’s defense, arguing that:
- It raises important historical questions.
- Food is a valid medium for cultural and political expression.
- Understanding the past helps create a more inclusive future.
Supporters say the backlash reflects a refusal to engage with hard truths about colonial history, and insist that confronting uncomfortable realities is a sign of societal maturity.
Cultural Reflection or Waste of Taxpayer Money?
At the core of the debate is this question: Is it valuable to explore food history through the lens of colonialism, or is it a misuse of public funds?
Critics argue that art grants should go toward practical, visible community benefits, not abstract academic projects. Supporters say the project represents exactly what public arts funding should do—push boundaries and start conversations.
What Decolonisation in Food Really Means
Decolonisation in culinary terms isn’t about cancelling traditional dishes. It’s about:
- Tracing where ingredients come from
- Understanding the power structures behind food trade
- Reflecting on how cultural identity is shaped by global history
It asks us to think: if a Welsh cake contains sugar that was once sourced through colonial systems—what does that mean for how we view our heritage?
The Role of the Arts Council of Wales
The Arts Council defended its decision, saying it encourages critical engagement with Welsh identity through food, art, and history. The council receives government funding, which it allocates based on artistic merit, cultural value, and innovation.
Officials said this project passed through the same rigorous application and review process as any other grant-funded initiative.
Historic Foods and Hidden Histories
This isn’t the first time food has been used as a lens to explore bigger issues. Across the UK, projects have looked at how:
- Tea, sugar, and spices were tied to empire.
- Traditional recipes evolved with colonial trade routes.
- National dishes have global, often painful, origins.
These initiatives often stir up strong emotions because they touch on national pride—but they also open new avenues for dialogue.
Is This Part of a Bigger Cultural Shift?
Yes. Projects like this are part of a broader movement to re-examine history through everyday experiences, including:
- Museums rethinking how they display artifacts.
- Schools updating history curriculums.
- Cities reevaluating monuments and statues.
Whether you agree or disagree, it’s clear that our collective past is under a microscope like never before.
Conclusion
The £10,000 grant to “decolonise Welsh cakes” has become a lightning rod for debate about art, identity, and history. While critics see it as frivolous spending, others argue it’s a necessary reflection on how deeply colonialism is woven into our lives—including what’s on our plates.
Regardless of where you stand, the project has done exactly what art is supposed to do: make people think, talk, and question.
FAQs
1. What does it mean to ‘decolonise’ a Welsh cake?
It means examining the historical origins of ingredients like sugar and how they relate to colonial exploitation.
2. Who funded this project?
The Arts Council of Wales, which supports cultural and creative initiatives across the country.
3. Why is this controversial?
Critics say it’s a waste of taxpayer money, while supporters argue it’s a thoughtful exploration of history and culture.
4. Are Welsh cakes being banned or changed?
No. The project is about reflection, not removal or rewriting of recipes.
5. Will there be more projects like this?
Possibly. As interest grows in examining the hidden histories behind everyday traditions, more projects like this are likely to emerge.
1 comment
Why not rename them “slave cakes” to drive home the message?